Crop Farming Guides for Growers Who Want Specifics

Planting dates, seeding depths, fertilizer rates, and harvest signals, worked out crop by crop for US growing conditions. We name the research behind each figure, so you can check it against your own region.

Crop farming at field scale, with young corn rows on the left and a drilled soybean field behind.

Compiled from Kansas State Research and Extension, Iowa State University Extension, UF/IFAS, Penn State Extension, and USDA NASS.

Minimum soil temperature to plant

Measured at seeding depth, early morning, three days running

CropSoil temp
Lettuce40°F
Carrots45°F
Potatoes45°F
Corn50°F
Onions50°F
Wheat54°F
Soybeans55°F
Peppers (transplant)60°F
Tomatoes (transplant)60°F
Melons65°F

These are minimums for germination, not targets. Warmer soil gives faster, more even emergence.

What is crop farming?

Crop farming is growing plants on purpose for food, feed, fiber, or fuel. It covers field corn on a thousand acres and a bed of lettuce behind the house. The scale changes. The decisions do not.

Every crop asks the same six questions. When do you plant it. How deep. How far apart. What does it need to eat and drink. What will try to eat it first. How do you know it is ready. This site answers those six questions crop by crop, and points to where each number came from.

Why the source matters

Planting dates, fertilizer rates, and spray cutoffs change by state, soil type, and season. A number that works in Georgia can fail in North Dakota.

Extension services publish this research for their own growing regions. Our job is to gather it and organize it by crop. We name which service published what.

When a figure varies by region, we say so instead of picking one and hoping.

Types of crops

Crops are grouped here by the part you harvest, because that is what decides how you plant, feed, and store them.

Grains

Corn, wheat, rice, oats, sorghum, barley, rye. Planted in rows or drilled, harvested dry, stored by moisture content.

14 crops

Beans and pulses

Soybeans, peanuts, dry beans, lentils, chickpeas. Fix their own nitrogen, so fertilizer plans work differently.

12 crops

Roots and bulbs

Potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, beets. Soil texture and depth decide shape more than anything you add later.

17 crops

Leafy greens

Lettuce, spinach, kale, cabbage, broccoli. Cool season crops that bolt when heat arrives early.

13 crops

Fruiting crops

Tomatoes, peppers, squash, melons, cucumbers. Need warm soil, steady water, and support once they set fruit.

13 crops

Stalks and cane

Asparagus, celery, rhubarb, sugarcane. Several are perennial, so the first year is about establishment.

8 crops

When did agriculture start?

Farming began roughly 12,000 years ago, in several parts of the world independently. Knowing the order helps explain why some crops tolerate cold and others do not.

c. 10,000 BCWheat and barley domesticated in the Fertile Crescent. Both still handle cool soil better than most crops.
c. 7,500 BCRice cultivated in the Yangtze valley. Its water needs trace back to those flooded river margins.
c. 7,000 BCMaize bred from teosinte in southern Mexico. It stays a warm season crop for that reason.
c. 5,000 BCPotatoes domesticated in the Andes. High altitude origins explain why they size up in cool weather.

How to start a farm

Establishing a farm is a sequence. Each step depends on the one before it, so the order matters more than the speed.

Test the soil before anything else

A soil test gives pH, phosphorus, potassium, and organic matter. Without it, every fertilizer decision is a guess. Most state extension labs charge under $25.

Match crops to your climate and soil

Check your USDA hardiness zone and your frost dates. Then pick crops that finish inside that window, on the soil you actually have.

Work out water before you plant

Know your source, your flow rate, and your delivery method. Most crops need about an inch a week. Rainfall rarely arrives on schedule.

Plan the rotation, not just the season

Rotation breaks pest and disease cycles and balances nutrient draw. Plan three years ahead, even on a small plot.

Buy equipment as the acreage demands it

Hand tools carry a quarter acre. Past two acres, seeding and spraying become the bottleneck. Buy for the job in front of you today.

Sort the paperwork early

Farm registration, water rights, and applicator licensing vary by state. Your county extension office knows which ones apply.

Crop farming methods

How you manage the ground between plantings matters as much as what you plant. These are the systems most US growers work within, alone or in combination.

Crop rotation

Planting a different crop each season on the same ground. Breaks pest and disease cycles and balances what each crop draws from the soil.

Cover cropping

Growing something over winter that you do not harvest. Holds soil in place, feeds soil life, and captures nitrogen that would otherwise leach away.

No-till and reduced tillage

Planting into last year’s residue instead of plowing. Keeps soil structure intact and cuts erosion, though weed pressure needs a different answer.

Continuous cropping

The same crop year after year. Simple to manage and equip for, but pest pressure and nutrient draw both build over time.

Intercropping

Two crops in the same field at once, in alternating rows or mixed stands. Uses space and light better, but harvest gets more complicated.

Organic production

Working without synthetic fertilizers and most synthetic pesticides. Certification has its own rules and a transition period before a crop can be sold as organic.

Most operations run a mix. A field can be no-till, in a three-year rotation, and under cover through the winter at the same time.

How to become a farmer

There is no single license or degree. Most growers arrive through one of three routes, and each has a different first year.

Start small and scale

Begin with a garden plot or a quarter acre. Learn one crop well, then add a second. Slow, but the mistakes stay cheap.

Work for a farm first

Paid work teaches equipment, timing, and labor rhythms that reading cannot. Many state programs place apprentices.

Take over existing ground

Inheriting or leasing established land skips setup but inherits its problems. Start with a soil test and a field history.


USDA runs a Beginning Farmer and Rancher program. It offers loan and training support during a grower’s first ten years. Your county extension office knows the local version.

Growing practices that cross every crop

Some decisions repeat no matter what you plant. These guides cover the reasoning once, so the crop pages can stay specific.

Common questions about crop farming

How much land do you need to start crop farming?

Less than people expect. A quarter acre in vegetables can supply a household and a small market stand. Grain crops need scale to pay for equipment, so most new growers start in vegetables and add acreage as the market grows.

What is the difference between crop farming and agriculture?

Agriculture covers everything grown or raised, including livestock, dairy, forestry, and aquaculture. Crop farming is the plant side of it: growing crops for food, feed, fiber, or fuel.

What is the easiest crop to start with?

Radishes, lettuce, and bush beans forgive most beginner mistakes and finish fast, so you learn a full cycle in weeks rather than months. Start with something quick before committing a season to a crop you have never grown.

How long does it take to grow a crop?

Radishes go from seed to harvest in about 25 days. Sweet corn takes 60 to 100. Winter wheat sits in the ground through winter and comes off the following summer. Days to maturity on the seed packet is the number to plan from.

When should you start planning a season?

The winter before. Soil tests take a few weeks to come back, seed for popular varieties sells out, and rotation decisions depend on what came off the same ground last year. Planning in spring is already late.

Do you need a licence to farm?

Not to grow for yourself. Selling produce, applying restricted pesticides, and using certain water sources all have rules that vary by state and often by county. Your county extension office can tell you which apply to you.

Latest guides

How we work

CropFarming.net is an independent reference. We are not a farm and we do not sell seed, inputs, or equipment.

Every guide is built from published research, then checked line by line against the sources it cites. Nothing goes live until each figure has been traced back to the service that published it.

Where a figure varies by region, we give the range and name the service that published it. Where the research is thin, we say that instead of filling the gap.

Meet the team and read our editorial policy.

Sources we rely on

  • K-State Research and Extension
  • Iowa State University Extension
  • Penn State Extension
  • UF/IFAS Extension
  • NDSU Extension
  • UGA Extension
  • Texas A&M AgriLife
  • UC ANR
  • USDA NASS statistics
  • USDA NRCS soil data
  • USDA ARS research
  • EPA pesticide labels

Found something wrong? Tell us

Does a figure here not match what your extension service publishes? We want to know. Corrections get checked and updated, and we name the source.

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